I always wanted to have a kind of heel which allows for seamless flowing of lace or color work patterns around the heel in toe-up socks. After trying around a little bit this is the result: a traditional toe-up design is divided at the center of the instep to allow increases to evolve from this point. After a few increases (7 to 11, depending on foot circumference, gauge and personal preferences) the increased stitches are put aside and the patterned part is worked back and forth until they meet at the back of the heel. (Additionally, the sole stitches are decreased fast at the almost end of the heel.) The remaining stitches are grafted together at the back of the heel.

At this point, you can try on your sock (in fact you could finish at this point as you’ve got a pretty ankle socklet). The increased stitches are put live again and a convenient amount of stitches are picked up around the edge. Work a leg/cuff section as you please and you’re done.

The socks shown are my latest pattern, Herzicolor. They are currently being test knitted and being published soon – stay tuned